The role of wave forcing on the main hydro‐morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross‐shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non‐local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter‐related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave‐forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non‐local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large‐scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along‐river‐flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars.
Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones / Brocchini, M.. - In: EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS. - ISSN 0197-9337. - STAMPA. - 45:1(2020), pp. 75-95. [10.1002/esp.4699]
Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones
Brocchini M.
2020-01-01
Abstract
The role of wave forcing on the main hydro‐morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross‐shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non‐local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter‐related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave‐forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non‐local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large‐scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along‐river‐flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
---|---|---|---|
Brocchini_RCEM_ESPL_accepted.pdf
Open Access dal 06/08/2020
Descrizione: This is the peer reviewed version of the following article: Brocchini, M. (2020) Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones. Earth Surf. Process. Landforms, 45: 75–95. https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.4699., which has been published in final form at https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.4699. This article may be used for non-commercial purposes in accordance with Wiley Terms and Conditions for Use of Self-Archived Versions. This article may not be enhanced, enriched or otherwise transformed into a derivative work, without express permission from Wiley or by statutory rights under applicable legislation. Copyright notices must not be removed, obscured or modified. The article must be linked to Wiley’s version of record on Wiley Online Library and any embedding, framing or otherwise making available the article or pages thereof by third parties from platforms, services and websites other than Wiley Online Library must be prohibited
Tipologia:
Documento in post-print (versione successiva alla peer review e accettata per la pubblicazione)
Licenza d'uso:
Licenza specifica dell’editore
Dimensione
6.99 MB
Formato
Adobe PDF
|
6.99 MB | Adobe PDF | Visualizza/Apri |
Earth Surf Processes Landf - 2019 - Brocchini - Wave‐forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths and swash zones.pdf
Solo gestori archivio
Tipologia:
Versione editoriale (versione pubblicata con il layout dell'editore)
Licenza d'uso:
Tutti i diritti riservati
Dimensione
4.5 MB
Formato
Adobe PDF
|
4.5 MB | Adobe PDF | Visualizza/Apri Richiedi una copia |
I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.